Beach Profiles - Response to Oceanic Conditions

This document contains information about the fundamentals of beach profiles and is intended to help teachers improve their content knowledge of ocean wave forces and coastal geomorphic response. Background addresses some of the basic information about waves and the beach profile. Methods of Measuring Beach Profiles presents the history of how coastal scientists have developed techniques of measuring beach topography (and bathymetry). Seasonal Changes in Beach Profiles discusses the natural variability in beach shape throughout the year. Human Activities and "Natural" Coastal Protection discusses the human measures that influence the physical behavior of the coast, such as river damming and emplacement of jetties, that alter the pattern of longshore sediment movement.